Literature & History Travel

THE SOLO DRIFTER: Lebanon – A Gem on Earth | A Travel Guide

By on Sunday, May 17, 2026

Since 2022, I had always wanted to visit Lebanon. Visiting it had long been part of my Middle East bucket list. Perhaps because, through the years, I have met many Lebanese people — and they have always been some of the chillest, warmest, and most fun people to be with. One of my best friends, Karine, is Lebanese, and during this trip, she and her family welcomed me with so much generosity and helped me roam around the country beyond what ordinary tourists would usually see.

As our plane descended toward Beirut, I found myself doing something I rarely do during flights — taking my phone out to record the view before landing. For the first time in my life, I was seeing snow-covered mountains, green landscapes, the deep blue sea, and a vibrant city all in one frame. It felt sacred. At that moment, I understood why people become emotionally attached to Lebanon. Lebanon is not just beautiful, it is soulful. A gift from God resting between mountains and the Mediterranean. A land filled with history, warmth, faith, resilience, and stories waiting to be told. And perhaps that is why it hurts to know how much this country has endured. Lebanon deserves peace. Its people deserve peace.

This piece is for the people of Lebanon, a country I unexpectedly became deeply attached to.

What you need to know about Lebanon

  • Lebanon is a small Mediterranean country in the Middle East bordered by Syria.
  • From 3200 to 539 BC, it was part of Phoenicia, a maritime civilization that spanned the Mediterranean Basin.
  • In 64 BC, the region became part of the Roman Empire and the subsequent Byzantine Empire.
  • After the dissolution of the Ottoman Empire following World War I, Lebanon came under the Mandate for Syria and the Lebanon, administered by France, which established Greater Lebanon.
  • By 1943, Lebanon had gained independence from Free France and established a distinct form of confessional government, with the state’s major religious groups being apportioned specific political powers.
  • The Phoenicians are credited with the invention of the oldest verified alphabet, which subsequently inspired the Greek alphabet and the Latin one thereafter.
  • Arabic is the official language, but many Lebanese also speak French and English fluently. It is common to hear all three languages mixed in one conversation.
  • Lebanon is home to the famous Cedars of Lebanon, trees mentioned multiple times in the Bible and considered symbols of strength, resilience, and holiness.
  • Evidence of early settlement in Lebanon was found in Byblos, considered among the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world.
  • The country is known for its unique geography where snow-capped mountains, green valleys, beaches, vineyards, and modern cities can exist within just a few hours of each other. It is divided into four distinct physiographic regions: the coastal plain, the Lebanon mountain range, the Beqaa Valley and the Anti-Lebanon Mountains. 
  • Lebanese cuisine is considered one of the best in the Middle East. Expect generous servings of mezze, grilled meats, fresh bread, olive oil, seafood, and desserts rich in pistachio and syrup.
  • During the 7th century, Muslims conquered Syria from the Byzantines, incorporating the region, including modern-day Lebanon, under the Islamic Caliphate.
  • Lebanon has a strong diaspora community around the world. Millions of people of Lebanese descent live abroad, contributing to business, arts, politics, and culture globally.
  • The country has a vibrant café culture. People spend hours talking over coffee, smoking shisha, playing cards, or simply enjoying the sea and mountain views.
  • Traffic in Beirut can be chaotic, and driving styles may surprise first-time visitors. Yet somehow, the flow continues with an unspoken rhythm understood by locals.
  • Lebanese nightlife is famous across the Middle East. From rooftop lounges to seaside restaurants and mountain bars, the country remains lively despite difficult times.
  • More than its landscapes and food, Lebanon leaves an emotional impact on visitors. It is the kind of country that feels beautiful, wounded, alive, and deeply human all at once.
  • According to surveys from the World Economic Forum’s 2013 Global Information Technology Report, Lebanon has been ranked globally as the fourth best country for math and science education, and as the tenth best overall for quality of education. In quality of management schools, the country was ranked 13th worldwide. Lebanon’s education system is heavily influenced by both French and American models, which is why many schools and universities teach in French or English alongside Arabic. This multicultural approach makes many Lebanese people naturally multilingual and globally oriented.
  • Lebanon experiences all four seasons. Summers are warm and Mediterranean, especially along the coast; winters can be cold with heavy snowfall in the mountains; spring brings lush greenery and blooming landscapes; while autumn paints the country in golden and earthy tones. One of the most fascinating things about Lebanon is that you can sometimes experience snow in the mountains and warm sea breeze along the coast on the same day.
  • There are 18 state-recognized religious sects: four Muslim, 12 Christian, one Druze, and one Jewish.
  • Lebanon has a unique political system designed to balance the country’s many religious groups. Certain government positions are traditionally assigned to specific faiths. For example, the President is a Maronite Christian, the Prime Minister is a Sunni Muslim, and the Speaker of Parliament is a Shi’a Muslim. This arrangement was created to promote representation and help maintain peace among Lebanon’s diverse communities.
  • Lebanon is divided into nine governorates.
  • Beirut, the capital city, is often called the “Paris of the Middle East” because of its blend of Arab, French, and Mediterranean influences in culture, architecture, food, and lifestyle.

What you need to know about Beirut Governorate

  • Smallest governorate in Lebanon by land area, but it is the country’s political, economic, and cultural center.
  • It is home to Beirut, the capital city of Lebanon and one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world.
  • Beirut blends history and modernity — where ancient ruins, Ottoman-era buildings, French-inspired architecture, cafés, churches, mosques, nightlife spots, and skyscrapers coexist in one cityscape.
  • The governorate sits along the Mediterranean coast, giving many parts of the city beautiful sea views, promenades, and vibrant waterfront life.

What you need to know about Baalbek-Hermel Governorate

  • Located in northeastern Lebanon and is known for its vast landscapes, mountains, valleys, and deep historical significance.
  • The governorate is home to Baalbek, one of the most historically important cities in the Middle East and a UNESCO World Heritage Site famous for its remarkably preserved Roman ruins.
  • The Temple of Bacchus and the Temple of Jupiter in Baalbek are considered among the grandest Roman structures ever built, showcasing the region’s ancient importance during the Roman Empire.
  • The governorate experiences colder winters than Beirut and coastal regions, with snow commonly covering parts of the mountains during winter season.
  • Hermel, located in the northern part of the governorate, is known for its natural scenery, open plains, and the famous Hermel Pyramid, an ancient stone monument overlooking the area.

What you need to know about Keserwan-Jbeil Governorate

  • Keserwan-Jbeil Governorate is one of the most scenic regions in Lebanon, known for its beautiful combination of mountains, forests, coastal towns, and historic cities.
  • The governorate is home to Jbeil (Byblos), considered one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, with a history dating back thousands of years.
  • Byblos is famous for its ancient port, old souks, stone streets, Crusader castle, and relaxed Mediterranean atmosphere.
  • Keserwan is known for its mountain towns, cooler climate, and breathtaking views overlooking the Mediterranean Sea.
  • The region is popular among both locals and tourists for weekend getaways, seaside dining, nightlife, resorts, and winter activities in nearby mountain areas.
  • Many parts of the governorate have a strong Christian heritage, reflected in its churches, monasteries, religious festivals, and traditional villages.

What you need to know about Mount Lebanon Governorate

  • Mount Lebanon Governorate surrounds parts of Beirut and is one of the most populated and diverse regions in Lebanon.
  • The governorate is famous for its mountains, pine forests, coastal towns, and picturesque villages overlooking the Mediterranean Sea.
  • Many of Lebanon’s iconic mountain destinations, hiking areas, ski resorts, and summer retreats are located within Mount Lebanon.
  • The region has long been considered the historical heartland of Lebanese mountain culture, especially among Christian communities who settled in the mountains centuries ago.
  • The governorate is known for its cooler weather during summer, making it a popular escape from the heat of Beirut and other coastal cities.
  • It is also home to famous destinations such as Jeita Grotto, mountain villages like Broumana and Aley, and many scenic roads lined with cedar, pine, and olive trees.
  • During winter, parts of Mount Lebanon become covered in snow, transforming the mountains into popular skiing and winter tourism destinations.

What you need to know about North Governorate

  • Also known as North Lebanon, is one of the most culturally and historically rich regions in Lebanon.
  • The governorate is home to Tripoli, Lebanon’s second-largest city, known for its historic souks, Mamluk-era architecture, mosques, and traditional street food.
  • Northern Lebanon has a more traditional and conservative atmosphere compared to Beirut, while still carrying the warmth and hospitality Lebanon is known for.
  • The region is famous for its mountains, valleys, forests, and picturesque villages, especially in areas such as Bsharri, Ehden, and the Qadisha Valley.
  • The Cedars of God, one of Lebanon’s most iconic natural landmarks and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, are located in this governorate.
  • The governorate is known for its strong literary, religious, and cultural heritage, with many monasteries, churches, and historical sites spread across the mountains.

What you need to know about South Governorate

  • Known for its coastal cities, fertile lands, historical sites, and deep cultural identity.
  • The governorate is home to Sidon (Saida), one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world and an important historical trading port along the Mediterranean.
  • Sidon is famous for its ancient sea castle, old souks, fishing harbor, and traditional Lebanese street food and sweets.
  • Southern Lebanon carries strong historical and emotional significance because of the conflicts and wars that affected the region throughout the years.
  • Shias make up the majority of the governorate and are the main residents of the Zahrani Tyre districts. Sunnis are the main residents of Sidon the capital of the governorate and the third largest city in Lebanon after Beirut and Tripoli. Christians are mainly residents of the Jezzine district and form a small community in the cities of Tyre, which is the fourth-most-populous city in Lebanon.

Visa

One of the most interesting parts of my trip to Lebanon was the visa process itself. Since I was traveling from Riyadh for business-related purposes and had colleagues in Lebanon assisting me, I actually did not need to personally visit the Lebanese Embassy in Riyadh. My Lebanese colleagues processed the arrangements from their side, which I honestly did not know was possible before this trip. The requirements they requested from me were relatively straightforward: hotel booking, flight details, letter of employment, and a business invitation letter. After coordination from their side, everything was arranged smoothly.

However, for those who are not residents of Riyadh or who do not have a sponsoring organization or local contact in Lebanon, the normal process would usually involve personally applying through the nearest Lebanese Embassy or Consulate. Requirements may vary depending on nationality, but typically include passport validity, application forms, hotel reservations, return tickets, proof of funds or employment, travel insurance, and sometimes an invitation letter.

At the immigration

One thing I noticed during the trip was the strict immigration screening. On my flight, I was actually one of only two non-Lebanese passengers. Because of that, airline staff and immigration officers understandably paid closer attention to my documents — from the check-in counter in Riyadh all the way to immigration arrival in Lebanon. The officers carefully inspected my passport, previous travel history, and even checked the authenticity of my visa stamps, including my Schengen visas and entry stamps from other countries. At first, it felt intimidating, but I also understood that Lebanon has gone through many security and political challenges over the years, so immigration procedures tend to be more thorough and cautious.

They are also strict when you are exiting Lebanon. Check your visa until when you are allowed to stay. Make sure to exit within the days mentioned there. Otherwise, you may request for extension or pay a fine at the immigration office.

Flying to Lebanon

Flying with Middle East Airlines gave me a glimpse of Lebanon even before landing. Founded in 1945, MEA has survived wars, crises, and instability, becoming a symbol of Lebanese resilience over the decades. The airline may not be the most modern or technologically innovative in the region. The aircraft we used between Riyadh and Beirut were already old, and the inflight experience felt more traditional compared to Gulf carriers. Yet what stood out to me was their human approach to customer service. Their team was quick to respond through email and even WhatsApp, making the experience feel more personal and less robotic.

One interesting observation was how full the flights always were even the Business Class cabin, reflecting the strong movement of Lebanese travelers.

Full review here.

Meanwhile, Beirut–Rafic Hariri International Airport is relatively small compared to other Middle Eastern airports, but it felt organized and efficient. It may not be luxurious, but it carries a very authentic atmosphere.

Getting Around Beirut and Other Parts of Lebanon

Transportation in Lebanon can initially feel intimidating for first-time visitors, especially in Beirut where traffic moves fast and driving styles can appear chaotic. However, after spending a few days in the country, I realized that locals somehow understand the rhythm of the roads naturally.

As a tourist, one of the easiest ways to move around is through private transfers, hotel-arranged transport, ride-hailing services like Uber (I recommend you to take this option and pay by card through the app to avoid the hassle of agreeing on the price), or trusted local drivers. In my case, I honestly did not encounter major transportation problems because my hotel transfers were already arranged by the firm. Beyond that, Karine’s uncle (Uncle Firas) generously took time to drive me around Beirut and even to other areas outside the capital, which allowed me to experience the country more comfortably and safely. For those who may need a trusted local contact or driver in the future, I may share his details privately when needed.

Cars remain the dominant mode of transportation in Lebanon. Roads are filled with private vehicles, taxis, and service cars moving constantly throughout the city. At the same time, motorcycles have also become increasingly common, especially in Beirut where riders maneuver through heavy traffic and narrow streets more quickly. Public transportation exists, but compared to some neighboring countries, it is less structured and may be confusing for tourists unfamiliar with the routes and local system.

One interesting thing I noticed while roaming around Beirut was the style of residential living. Unlike some provincial areas or smaller towns in Lebanon where houses are more spread out, many residential areas in Beirut are dominated by apartment buildings and compact urban communities. Due to limited space and the city’s dense population, vertical living has become very common. In contrast, as you move toward mountain towns or other governorates, you begin to see more traditional homes, villas, and spacious residential areas surrounded by nature.

Where to stay

During my stay in Beirut, I stayed at InterContinental Phoenicia Beirut, one of the city’s most iconic luxury hotels overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. What immediately stood out to me was the view. Every breakfast felt cinematic. The restaurant overlooks the sea, and seeing the Mediterranean waters blend with Beirut’s skyline early in the morning created a calm and almost emotional atmosphere.

The location of the hotel was also very convenient. Being situated near Beirut’s waterfront made it easier to access restaurants, cafés, and several key areas within the city.

Another highlight for me was the wellness facilities. The spa experience felt peaceful and restorative, especially after long days of exploring the city and traveling between different areas of Lebanon.

What to do

North Governorate

Batroun

Among all the coastal towns I visited in Lebanon, Batroun probably had one of the most charming atmospheres. The city beautifully combines history, beach culture, nightlife, cafés, old streets, and Mediterranean energy all in one place.

Batroun feels youthful and artistic while still preserving its old Lebanese identity. Walking around the city felt relaxed and vibrant at the same time.

Saint Stephen Cathedral

One of the landmarks that immediately stands out in Batroun is Saint Stephen Cathedral. The church’s sandstone architecture and presence at the center of the town give Batroun a very timeless Mediterranean atmosphere.

Batroun Old Souk

The Batroun Old Souk was one of my favorite places to simply walk around without rushing. The narrow stone streets, cafés, restaurants, local shops, and old houses gave the place so much character. At night, the souk becomes lively with people dining outdoors, listening to music, and enjoying the relaxed coastal atmosphere.

Diaspora Village

Diaspora Village was created to honor the deep connection between Lebanon and the millions of Lebanese descendants living abroad. Lebanon has one of the world’s largest diasporas relative to its population. Over many decades because of trade, economic migration, wars, and political instability, millions of Lebanese immigrated to countries across the Middle East, Africa, Europe, North and South America, and Australia. In fact, many believe there are more people of Lebanese descent living outside Lebanon than inside the country itself.

Diaspora Village in Batroun symbolizes this global Lebanese identity. The village was designed as a cultural and tourism project where visitors can see representations of Lebanese migration stories, heritage, and international Lebanese presence. It reflects how Lebanese communities abroad contributed significantly to business, arts, politics, trade, and culture around the world while maintaining strong emotional ties to Lebanon.

Visiting the place made me realize how global Lebanese influence truly is. Almost everywhere in the world, you will eventually meet someone with Lebanese roots and places like Diaspora Village celebrate that enduring connection between homeland and diaspora.

Mseilha Walkway

The walkway follows the area near the historic Mseilha Fort and river, surrounded by greenery, rock formations, flowing water, and mountain scenery. Families, couples, and groups of friends casually walked around, drank coffee, took photos, and simply enjoyed nature. It felt like one of those places where locals come to slow down and escape city life.

Arnaoon Village

Visiting Arnaoon Village gives another glimpse into rural and mountain life in Lebanon. The village felt peaceful, traditional, and deeply connected to nature. Stone houses, mountain views, fresh air, and quiet surroundings created an atmosphere very different from the coastal cities. Villages like Arnaoon may not always appear in mainstream travel itineraries, but they often reveal the most genuine and human side of Lebanon.

Tripoli

As Lebanon’s second-largest city, Tripoli is known for its rich Islamic heritage, old souks, Mamluk-era architecture, mosques, hammams, and traditional markets. Walking through parts of the city felt like stepping into another time period — narrow streets, old stone buildings, shops selling spices and sweets, and centuries of history layered into everyday life. Tripoli is also famous across Lebanon for its sweets and desserts. Many locals proudly say that some of the country’s best traditional Arabic sweets can be found there. Food, coffee, and hospitality remain deeply important parts of the city’s culture.

Keserwan-Jbeil Governorate

Laqlouq

Driving through Laqlouq felt completely different from the coastal side of Lebanon. Located high in the mountains, Laqlouq known for its cold weather, snowy winters, ski areas, and breathtaking natural scenery. The road going there was already an experience on its own with dramatic views overlooking valleys below. During colder months, the area transforms into one of Lebanon’s winter destinations.

What struck me most was how Lebanon can change so quickly within a short drive. One moment you are beside the Mediterranean Sea, and a few hours later you are surrounded by mountain landscapes covered by snow that almost feel European.

Byblos (Jbeil)

Visiting Byblos, also known as Jbeil, felt surreal because of how ancient the city is. Often considered one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, Byblos carries thousands of years of history while still feeling alive and vibrant today.

Memory of Time Fossil Museum

The museum showcases fossils and preserved marine life dating back millions of years, reflecting Lebanon’s ancient geological history. I even bought a fossil souvenir from there. Of course, like many tourists, I found myself wondering afterward whether all souvenir fossils sold in such places are fully authentic or partly commercial reproductions. From what I understood, many smaller souvenir items may combine genuine fossil fragments with commercially prepared materials for accessibility and preservation purposes. Still, regardless of the exact level of authenticity, the experience itself remained meaningful because it connects visitors to Lebanon’s incredibly ancient natural history.

Phoenician Alphabet Marker

One of the things Lebanon takes pride in is its connection to the Phoenicians, the ancient civilization often credited with developing one of the earliest alphabets that influenced many modern writing systems. Seeing the Phoenician Alphabet Marker felt symbolic, a reminder that this small country once played a massive role in the history of human communication and trade.

Byblos Old Souk

The Byblos Old Souk was one of the most atmospheric places I visited in Lebanon. Stone pathways, old shops, restaurants, lanterns, and sea breeze all combined beautifully together. At night, the old souk becomes especially magical, filled with lights, music, and people dining outdoors beside centuries-old structures.

Byblos Citadel and Historical Landmarks

The Byblos Citadel stands as one of the city’s most iconic landmarks overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Built during the Crusader period using stones from older civilizations, the citadel reflects the many layers of history that passed through Byblos. Around it are archaeological remains from Phoenician, Roman, and medieval periods, making the city feel like an open-air museum of human civilization.

Jbeil Marina

Jbeil Marina perfectly captures the romantic Mediterranean side of Lebanon. Boats quietly docked beside old stone structures, seafood restaurants, cafés, and sunset views created an atmosphere that felt peaceful and timeless. It was one of those places where you simply want to sit quietly and absorb the surroundings.

Jounieh

Located north of Beirut along the coast, the city is known for its beautiful bay, nightlife, seaside atmosphere, restaurants, and mountain views. Driving through Jounieh was already scenic on its own. The combination of the Mediterranean Sea on one side and mountains on the other creates one of the most iconic landscapes in Lebanon.

Jounieh is also known for landmarks such as the famous Our Lady of Lebanon shrine in Harissa, which overlooks the bay and offers breathtaking panoramic views of the coastline below.

Jabal Moussa Biosphere Reserve

Recognized by UNESCO as a biosphere reserve, the area is known for its mountains, forests, biodiversity, hiking trails, and historical significance. The reserve offers a completely different side of Lebanon from the busy coastal cities. What makes Jabal Moussa special is not only its scenery but also its environmental importance. The reserve protects wildlife, ancient trees, traditional agricultural areas, and ecosystems unique to the Lebanese mountains. The place also carries historical and spiritual significance, as the mountains and surrounding areas have long been associated with old trade routes, monasteries, and traditional village life.

Beirut Governorate

Zaitunay Bay

Zaitunay Bay represents its modern Mediterranean lifestyle. Located along Beirut’s waterfront, Zaitunay Bay is one of the city’s most vibrant and relaxing destinations. The area is lined with cafés, restaurants, luxury yachts, and seaside walkways overlooking the Mediterranean Sea.

What I loved most about the place was the atmosphere. People were jogging, dining outdoors, drinking coffee, laughing with friends, and simply enjoying life beside the water. It felt calm yet alive at the same time.

Beirut Souks

Walking around Beirut Souks felt very different from traditional Arab souks I visited in other Middle Eastern countries. Instead of crowded maze-like markets, Beirut Souks combines modern luxury shopping with the historical spirit of old Beirut. The area is clean, open, organized, and filled with international brands, cafés, restaurants, cinemas, and public spaces. Yet beneath the modern structures lies the deep history of the city itself, as the district was rebuilt after years of conflict and destruction.

At night, the atmosphere becomes even more vibrant as people gather outdoors for dinner, coffee, and conversations.

Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque & Saint George Greek Orthodox Cathedral

One of the most symbolic places was the area where Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque and Saint George Greek Orthodox Cathedral stand side by side. This is the first thing that I observed when I was heading to the hotel from the airport.

The Al Amin Mosque immediately stands out because of its massive blue dome and Ottoman-inspired architecture, becoming one of Beirut’s most recognizable landmarks. Meanwhile, Saint George Orthodox Cathedral carries centuries of Christian history and spiritual significance within the city.

Other places to consider

Mar Mikhael

The neighborhood is known for its cafés, bars, restaurants, art spaces, nightlife, and old Beirut charm. Walking through the streets, you can immediately feel the energy of the area — graffiti, music, conversations, outdoor dining, old buildings, and people from different backgrounds all blending together naturally. Mar Mikhael reflects the artistic and resilient spirit of Beirut.

Hamra

The district is famous for its universities, bookstores, cafés, theaters, restaurants, and street life. Historically, Hamra became one of Beirut’s cultural and intellectual centers during the 1960s and 1970s, attracting writers, journalists, artists, and academics from across the Arab world.

Roman Baths

Located in downtown Beirut, these archaeological remains date back to the Roman period and remind visitors that Beirut has been inhabited and rebuilt by countless civilizations over thousands of years. The baths once formed part of Beirut’s Roman social and public life, where people gathered not only for bathing but also for conversation and community activities.

Mount Lebanon Governorate

Shouf

Shouf felt peaceful and grounded in nature. Located in the mountains of Mount Lebanon, the region is known for its breathtaking landscapes, traditional villages, forests, and strong cultural identity. The drive itself was already beautiful — winding mountain roads, stone houses, pine and cedar trees, and scenic viewpoints overlooking valleys and distant towns.

Shouf Biosphere Reserve

Visiting Shouf Biosphere Reserve made me appreciate another side of Lebanon beyond cities and coastlines. It is the country’s largest nature reserve and one of the most important protected environmental areas in the Middle East.

The reserve is famous for its cedar forests, hiking trails, mountain scenery, and biodiversity. It is also home to some of the remaining Cedar of Lebanon trees, one of the country’s most important national and biblical symbols.

For travelers who love nature, hiking, or simply escaping city life, Shouf Biosphere Reserve is one of the most beautiful places to experience the soul of Lebanon.

Moussa Castle

Moussa Castle is probably one of the most unique places I visited in Lebanon, not only because of its appearance, but because of the story behind it. The castle was built by Moussa Al-Maamari, a Lebanese man who reportedly dreamed of building his own castle after being told during his youth that such dreams were impossible. Instead of giving up, he spent decades constructing the castle largely by himself.

Inside, the castle contains displays, sculptures, artifacts, wax figures, and scenes representing traditional Lebanese life and history. The place feels both artistic and deeply personal.

Al Midan (Dany Chamoun) Square

Located in the heart of Deir al-Qamar, Al Midan (also known as Dany Chamoun Square) felt like one of the most charming public spaces I visited in the Lebanese mountains. Surrounded by old stone buildings, cafés, historical structures, and traditional Lebanese architecture, the square carries a calm and nostalgic atmosphere that immediately slows you down.

The square has long been an important gathering place in the town, reflecting the social and historical character of Deir al-Qamar itself. People sit outdoors, drink coffee, talk for hours, and simply enjoy the mountain atmosphere around them. What I appreciated most was how authentic the place felt. It did not feel overly commercialized or designed purely for tourists.

At certain moments, especially with the mountain air, old lanterns, and surrounding stone houses, the place almost felt European yet unmistakably Lebanese at the same time.

Jeita Grotto

Visiting Jeita Grotto felt like entering another world hidden beneath the mountains of Lebanon. Often considered one of the country’s greatest natural wonders, the grotto is made up of massive limestone caves filled with stunning rock formations, underground rivers, and cathedral-like chambers formed over thousands of years.

There are areas where photography is not allowed, which somehow makes the experience feel more intimate and memorable because visitors are forced to simply pause and absorb the beauty around them.

The lower cave, accessed by boat, was particularly unforgettable. Floating quietly through the underground river while surrounded by towering rock formations made me understand why Jeita Grotto is often considered one of Lebanon’s national treasures. In this area, you can rent a water-proof tablet to take videos and photos. At the end of your trip, they will send your captured moments.

Where to eat

One of the best ways to understand Lebanon is through its food. Lebanese cuisine is not only flavorful and diverse, it is deeply social and cultural. Meals are designed to be shared, conversations last long, and tables are usually filled with different dishes all served together. During my stay, Michelle and Christelle helped me navigate Lebanese cuisine and introduced me to many dishes, flavors, and dining customs that I might not have fully appreciated on my own. Because of them, I became more open to trying different kinds of mezze, grilled dishes, seafood, breads, and local desserts beyond the usual Middle Eastern food many foreigners are already familiar with. Some of the most popular dishes in Lebanon include hummus, tabbouleh, fattoush, kibbeh, shawarma, kafta, mixed grills, manakish, Warak Enab (stuffed vine leaves), and sambousek.

What makes Lebanese cuisine special is the balance of freshness, herbs, olive oil, spices, grilled flavors, and Mediterranean influence. Meals often begin with large selections of mezze — small dishes placed at the center of the table for everyone to share.

I also noticed how seriously Lebanese people take hospitality. Guests are constantly encouraged to eat more, try another dish, drink coffee, or stay longer at the table. Food in Lebanon is not rushed; it is part of social life itself.

From humble falafel shops to elegant restaurants overlooking the Mediterranean, every dining experience in Lebanon felt warm, generous, and deeply human.

Em Sherif

Before even visiting Lebanon, I had already experienced Em Sherif for the first time in Abu Dhabi when my good friend Mahdi generously hosted lunch for us. That first experience introduced me to how refined, elegant, and deeply cultural Lebanese dining could be.

Founded in Beirut by Mireille Hayek, Em Sherif became internationally known for elevating traditional Lebanese cuisine into a luxurious fine dining experience while still preserving its authenticity and hospitality. Over the years, the restaurant expanded to several cities across the Middle East and internationally, becoming one of the most recognized Lebanese restaurant brands globally.

Patchi

One thing many people outside Lebanon may not immediately realize is that Patchi is actually a Lebanese brand. Founded in Beirut in 1974 by Nizar Choucair, Patchi transformed chocolate gifting in the Middle East by combining premium chocolates with elegant packaging and luxury presentation. Over time, it became deeply associated with celebrations, weddings, hospitality, and gifting culture across the Arab world. In many Middle Eastern countries, giving Patchi chocolates feels less like giving ordinary sweets and more like presenting a luxury gesture.

Beirut

Abou Nabil Falafel

Trying Abou Nabil Falafel was one of those experiences that reminded me that some of the best food in the Middle East often comes from humble and long-standing local establishments. Abou Nabil Falafel is considered one of Beirut’s well-known traditional falafel spots, carrying decades of history and local reputation. The concept itself is simple: freshly fried falafel wrapped in Arabic bread with vegetables, pickles, tahini, and traditional seasonings. Yet the flavor felt incredibly authentic, rich, and comforting.

Watch this video as I talk to the current generation owners of the brand as they tell the story of this falafel botique.

Bartartine

One of the places I enjoyed in Beirut was Bartartine, a Lebanese bakery and café concept known for combining traditional flavors with a modern and cozy atmosphere. I went there together with Karine, Carl, Joseph, and Ahmad after a long walk around Beirut Souks. After hours of exploring the city, Bartartine became the perfect place to slow down, rest, eat, and simply enjoy conversations together.

This is actually my favorite and before my flight, I made sure that I go back there and have my last meal (with Abdelrahim) from there. I am a salad guy. My favorite specifically from them is their Shrimp Mango Bowl – juicy marinated shrimps on a mix of arugula, cucumber, mint and black rice topped with mango, avocado, cashews, edamame and goji berries, served with mustard sauce.

What I appreciated about Bartartine was how it reflects modern urban Lebanese lifestyle: stylish yet relaxed, contemporary yet deeply connected to local food culture. Their bakery items, breakfast dishes, sandwiches, and pastries all carried fresh Mediterranean flavors.

Les Caves de Taillevent

Dining at Les Caves de Taillevent felt like experiencing another layer of Beirut’s personality — refined, elegant, and deeply influenced by both French and Mediterranean culture. The restaurant carries a sophisticated atmosphere without feeling overly intimidating. From the interiors to the presentation of wine, everything felt carefully curated and intentional. It reminded me how Beirut has long been known as one of the more cosmopolitan and culturally layered cities in the Middle East.

The restaurant’s strong French influence also reflects Lebanon’s historical connection with France, something you can still observe in the country’s language, education system, cafés, and culinary culture.

Beit Halab

Dining at Beit Halab introduced me to another dimension of Levantine cuisine beyond traditional Lebanese food. Originally inspired by the culinary traditions of Aleppo, Syria, the restaurant is known for rich flavors, grilled meats, kebabs, and elaborate Middle Eastern dishes deeply rooted in Levantine heritage.

The atmosphere felt warm and traditional, yet elegant at the same time. Large tables filled with mezze, grilled dishes, bread, and desserts reflected the communal style of dining so common across Lebanon and the broader Levant region. In Lebanon, it is very natural to see Syrian, Lebanese, Armenian, and Mediterranean influences blending together in food, language, and daily life.

Abdullah, who I met at the airport in Riyadh, took me here. He was travelling to Beirut for the resumption of university classes. He has Yemeni roots but living in Saudi. I realized that there are a lot of younger people going to Lebanon to pursue education.

Batroun

Ray’s Restaurant

Having breakfast at Ray’s Restaurant felt very Mediterranean — tea, sea breeze, conversations, and Arabic breakfast blending naturally together. What I appreciated most was the relaxed atmosphere. Like many restaurants in Batroun, the experience was not only about food but about slowing down and enjoying the coast.

Hilmi’s World Famous Lemonade

A visit to Batroun would probably feel incomplete without trying Hilmi’s World Famous Lemonade which has become one of the town’s most iconic stops, famous for its refreshing homemade lemonade mixed with mint and other flavors. Simple as it sounds, drinking cold lemonade while walking through Batroun’s old streets somehow perfectly matched the city’s laid-back summer atmosphere. Inside the building is a museum and a souvenir shop.

Mount Lebanon

Abu 3abdo restaurant

One of the local dining experiences I genuinely enjoyed in Lebanon was Abu 3abdo restaurant in Khalde, south of Beirut. The restaurant is well-known among locals for its traditional Lebanese barbecue, grilled meats, mezze, and lively atmosphere. Uncle Firas took me here.

The food itself reflected the richness of Lebanese cuisine: flavorful grilled meats, freshly baked bread, mezze, and generous servings designed for sharing. Like many restaurants in Lebanon, the experience is not only about eating but about gathering and spending time with people. They have large serving.

Located in Khalde, a coastal town known as an important gateway between Beirut and southern Lebanon, the restaurant also captures the relaxed seaside and roadside dining culture common in the country.

One thing I quickly noticed in Lebanon is how rich and diverse its café, restaurant, and wine culture is. From cozy mountain cafés and seaside restaurants to trendy coffee shops, traditional Lebanese dining places, bakeries, bars, and wine stores — there are simply too many places to choose from. Lebanese people genuinely enjoy gathering around food and drinks, which is why dining and café culture feel deeply embedded in everyday life.

The places I mentioned throughout this blog are only the ones I personally experienced firsthand during my trip. There are still countless restaurants, coffee spots, wineries, and hidden local gems across Lebanon that I was not able to explore within a single visit.

As I end this journey through Lebanon, I realized that this country left a far deeper impression on me. I visited during winter, a season that allowed me to witness snow-covered mountains, cold Mediterranean winds, quiet villages, and landscapes that felt almost unreal. Yet even after seeing so much beauty, I know there is still so much more of Lebanon waiting to be discovered.

I hope one day to return during other seasons — to see its spring blossoms, summer coastlines, autumn mountains, and the many places I was not able to visit this time, especially those areas currently experiencing tensions and hardships. Lebanon deserves to be fully experienced in peace.

More than its landscapes, ruins, food, or cities, what truly made this journey meaningful were the people. The warmth, humor, resilience, hospitality, and openness of the Lebanese people made me understand why so many become emotionally attached to this country.

To Uncle Firas, thank you for generously taking me around Lebanon and sharing your country with so much warmth and pride. To my friends in the firm, thank you for making me feel welcomed and safe throughout the trip.

And to Karine and her family, thank you for treating me not merely as a visitor, but almost like family. To Karine’s brother Mohammed who was generous in sharing his knowledge about Lebanon. To Karine’s mom who was so welcoming and artistic, and for preparing dinner and snacks for us; and to her father whose jokes always make the room full of fun and laughter.

Lebanon is not a perfect country. It has endured wars, crises, divisions, and pain. Yet despite everything, it continues to shine with beauty, culture, faith, history, and humanity. And perhaps that is what makes Lebanon truly unforgettable. A gem on earth.

I sincerely wish only peace, healing, stability, and brighter days for Lebanon and its people.

ALSO READ:

Middle East
Kingdom of Saudi Arabia
United Arab Emirates
Jordan
Oman
Bahrain
Qatar

Note: Visit this article again on 31 May 2026 as we include in this space the itinerary, budget and social media accounts of local brands.

About the Author

Paul Michael Jaramillo
Paul Michael JaramilloChief Executive Editor
PJ is a Certified Public Accountant, writer, storyteller, and an advocate for youth empowerment and environmental protection. His passion for storytelling and social impact has taken many forms—from writing thought-provoking articles on national development, featured in a Spanish newspaper and Rappler, to producing documentaries on mining and environmental issues that aired on ABS-CBN News and GMA News.

A proud Ilocano and graduate of Northwestern University, PJ earned his degree in Accountancy then passed the CPA licensure exam in 2015. That same year, he began his professional career at KPMG in the Philippines. As an external auditor, he handled a diverse portfolio of clients, including a global workspace provider (the largest audit engagement of KPMG Philippines), a global bank, a major FMCG player, and several shared service centers.

His commitment to innovation was evident early in his career. PJ and his team won the KPMG Asia-Pacific Data & Analytics Challenge and later coached the Philippine team to a top-three finish at the KPMG GlobalRunner Cup. He went on to lead KPMG Philippines' Network of Audit Innovators and Data & Analytics Champions, as well as its academic arm. He was an active contributor to the Asia-Pacific Audit Digital Transformation Workstream and a member of both the Audit Methodology Group and the Root Cause Analysis Team. Beyond technical excellence, PJ is deeply committed to learning and leadership. He was a regular training facilitator on audit methodology, professional standards, and emerging tools in data and analytics. He also served as the Firm’s System of Quality Management (SoQM) Implementation Manager and one of its Workforce of the Future Champions.

In 2019, he contributed to the Philippine Institute of Certified Public Accountants (PICPA) as a member of its Technical Working Group on Audit Methodology. His role in shaping audit quality and innovation has left a meaningful imprint on the profession.

PJ defines success by the people he uplifts. As a mentor and coach, he invests in the growth of emerging professionals and previously served as a member of the KPMG Philippines People Committee.

He leads various community-centered advocacy projects and shares inspiring stories through his vlog, PJspirations, a platform that celebrates individuals and their journeys. As a volunteer, he serves as Academic Master and Head Coach of PREMIER International Learning and Development Center, an organization devoted to providing coaching, mentoring, and training programs that help people grow personally and professionally.

Today, PJ brings his passion and expertise to the Middle East, South Asia, and Caspian regions as part of KPMG’s Professional Practice and Audit Learning & Development team. In this role, he contributes to audit methodology advancement and learning strategy across the Middle East Cluster.

He is also a certified #IAmRemarkable facilitator, leading sessions of the global Google initiative that empowers women and underrepresented groups to celebrate their achievements.

Tiktok: PJspirations
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Personal Website: http://lnk.bio/pjspirations
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