It was my first time traveling to the north of Saudi Arabia. For years, my journeys around the Kingdom had taken me to many regions, but the far north remained a blank space on my map.
Tabuk sits in the corner of the Arabian Peninsula. From here, the borders of Jordan are only a few hours away, while the Red Sea coast connects the region to destinations such as NEOM and the shores of the northwestern Saudi coastline. Within Saudi Arabia itself, Tabuk also lies relatively close to the historic oasis town of AlUla, known for its remarkable desert landscapes and ancient heritage sites. This unique location places Tabuk at a crossroads of cultures, landscapes, and history.
The region’s proximity to Jordan is also reflected in everyday life. Many aspects of Tabuk’s culture, from the warmth of its hospitality to familiar dishes such as mansaf, carry subtle influences that feel closely connected to the traditions across the border.
This year, I finally had the opportunity to visit Tabuk as I traveled there to celebrate Saudi Founding Day in a place I had never experienced before.
Like many first-time visitors, I arrived with certain expectations. The north felt remote in my mind, and I imagined a place defined mostly by its landscapes rather than its people. But those assumptions quickly faded within just one day.
My perspective changed completely after spending time with Shaher Albalawi, I call him Abu Fares – because for Saudis who I know on a personal level I decided to call them by their nicknames, who guided me through some of Tabuk’s most remarkable places. Through him, I did not only see the stunning valleys, mountains, and deserts of the region; I also experienced something even more memorable—the genuine warmth and hospitality of the people of Tabuk.
I visited during the first week of Ramadan, which I initially thought might make traveling more difficult. Instead, it became part of the experience. The slower rhythm of the days and the generosity I encountered along the way made the journey not only manageable but deeply meaningful.
In just a short time, Tabuk revealed itself to be exactly what I had not expected: a place where breathtaking landscapes meet incredibly hospitable people—a true Tender North of Saudi Arabia.
Table of Contents
What you need to know about Tabuk Region
- The history of Tabuk province dates back to 3,000 B.C.E. The province is identified with the land of Midian.
- The province is traversed by the Hejaz railway, which was built during the Ottoman Empire under the Sultan Abdul Hamid II and was a focus for attacks during the Arab Revolt of 1916–1918.
- Tabuk Province comprises six governorates, with Tabuk City serving as the seat of the province. Others being Umluj, Al-Wajh, Duba, Tayma, Haql and Al-Bad.
- Tabuk Province shares two international land border crossings with Jordan, supporting both regional trade and religious tourism. The Durra Border Crossing connects Haql in Tabuk Province to Aqaba in Jordan. The Halat Ammar Border Crossing is located near the town of Halat Ammar, southwest of Tabuk city – it serves as a key point of entry for pilgrims traveling to Mecca for Hajj and Umrah.
- During colder months, the mountains around Jabal Al-Lawz occasionally experience snowfall, making it one of the rare places in Saudi Arabia where visitors can see snow.
- Despite being known for its deserts, Tabuk is also a major agricultural hub, producing crops such as wheat, fruits, and vegetables due to its fertile plains and cooler climate.
What you need to know about Tabuk City
- Tabuk City is the administrative and economic center of the Tabuk region in northwestern Saudi Arabia. It serves as the main gateway for travelers exploring the region’s mountains, valleys, and Red Sea coast.
- Tabuk Province is rich in antiquities and archaeological sites such as petroglyphs, inscriptions, forts, palaces, sections of the Syrian and Egyptian pilgrimage (Hajj) routes.
- Tabuk became a centre of military activity during the 1991 Gulf War as the city faced threats from Iraqi Scud missiles and air attacks.
What you need to know about NEOM and the governorates of Duba, Haql and Al-Bad
- NEOM is not a governorate but a massive development zone that spans several existing governorates in the Tabuk Region, particularly Duba, Haql, and Al-Badʿ.
- Duba is a coastal governorate along the Red Sea and has long been an important maritime point in northern Saudi Arabia. Nearby coastal towns such as Sharma fall within this governorate. Sharma has become particularly significant because it lies within the NEOM development zone and near NEOM Bay Airport.
- Haql sits along the Gulf of Aqaba near the borders with Jordan. On clear days, visitors can see the mountains of Egypt and Jordan across the Gulf of Aqaba.
- Several locations near Al-Badʿ are traditionally connected to stories related to Prophet Musa (Moses).
Getting to and around Tabuk
By Air
The main gateway to the region is Prince Sultan bin Abdulaziz International Airport, located in Tabuk. The airport handles both civilian and military operations and serves as the primary aviation hub for the Tabuk region. It offers regular domestic flights to major Saudi cities such as Riyadh and Jeddah, along with limited international services.
When I arrived, the airport immediately left a good impression. It was very clean, well-organized, and easy to navigate, making the arrival experience smooth even for first-time visitors to the region. For this trip, I flew Flyadeal from Riyadh to Tabuk, and returned to Riyadh via Flynas. Both options were very affordable at the time I booked my flights.
Aside from Tabuk’s main airport, other nearby airports also support travel to the wider region:
- Red Sea International Airport – Located in Hanak along the Red Sea coast, this airport began operations in 2023 and serves major tourism developments such as The Red Sea Destination and Amaala.
- NEOM Bay Airport – Located near Sharma, this airport began limited operations in 2019 and currently serves as the initial air hub supporting the NEOM development.
- Al Wajh Domestic Airport – A smaller regional airport serving Al-Wajh Governorate and Umluj Governorate, providing additional domestic connectivity along the Red Sea coast.
By Road
For those who enjoy road trips, Tabuk can also be reached by car from several major cities in Saudi Arabia. Highways connect the region to destinations such as Riyadh, Medina, and other cities in the northwest. Driving allows travelers to appreciate the changing landscapes of Saudi Arabia from desert plains to mountains and coastal scenery.
Getting Around
Once in Tabuk, getting around is relatively straightforward. Visitors can:
- Rent a car, which is ideal for exploring remote natural sites.
- Use ride-hailing apps such as Uber, Bolt, or Careem within the city.
During my visit, however, transportation was the least of my worries. Abu Fares was with me throughout the trip, and some of my local friends in the region also took me around.
Tabuk has a modern public bus system connecting the city’s main districts, hospitals, and the airport. However, most visitors still prefer using ride-hailing apps or private cars when exploring the region.
The city operates an urban bus network run by Saudi Public Transport Company (SAPTCO). It covers about 106 bus stops across the city. Buses operate about 18 hours per day, typically from 5:30 AM to 11:30 PM. Interestingly, Tabuk also became the first city in Saudi Arabia to introduce electric buses as part of its public transport system.
Where to stay in Tabuk
Thanks to Abu Fares for giving me lots of options. I wanted to have a glamping or camping but the time of my visit didn’t allow me because it was Ramadan. I picked Holiday Inn Tabuk. It is one of the most convenient and comfortable places to stay in the city. They even gave me a free upgrade.
Located along Prince Fahd Bin Sultan Street and just a short drive from Prince Sultan bin Abdulaziz Airport, the hotel offers a practical base for exploring Tabuk and its surrounding natural attractions.
One of the highlights of my stay was meeting the hotel’s manager, whose knowledge of the cultural connections between northern Saudi Arabia and neighboring Jordan was remarkable. Listening to him explain the similarities in traditions, food, and social customs between the two regions gave me a deeper appreciation of Tabuk’s unique cultural position at the crossroads of Arabia and the Levant.
Finding the right guide in Tabuk
On many of my trips across Saudi Arabia, I am fortunate to travel with local friends who introduce me to their cities and cultures in a more personal way. This time, however, I arrived in Tabuk without a local companion because it’s Ramadan. So I searched on online for tourism agencies who can make my itinerary happen. Then I saw Shaher Albalawi’s profile on GetYourGuide. I started searching him on Google and AI chats. If you ask ChatGPT who the best tour guide in Tabuk is, one name quickly comes up: Shaher Albalawi.
But what I found was far more than a tour guide. From the moment we met, Shaher understood exactly what kind of experience I was looking for. I simply told him the places I hoped to see and the kind of vibe I wanted for the trip. From there, he took care of everything. The itinerary, the timing, the hidden spots. He handled it all with the ease of someone who truly knows his home region.
What made the journey special was not just the destinations we visited, but the conversations along the way. Somewhere between the mountains, valleys, and long desert roads of Tabuk, I realized that I hadn’t just found a guide for the trip. I had gained a friend and in many ways, a brother. And perhaps that is the best way to experience a place like Tabuk: not simply as a visitor passing through, but through the eyes of someone who proudly calls it home.
Places to visit
Al-Bad
Jabal Al-Lawz — Moses Altar and the Golden Calf Site
The first place I visited during this trip was Jabal Al-Lawz, a majestic mountain rising from the desert landscapes of northwestern Saudi Arabia. The area is often associated with traditions linked to the story of Prophet Musa (Moses), and several sites nearby are believed by some historians and researchers to be connected to events mentioned in religious texts.
Among the places we explored was what many refer to as the Moses Altar, a structure made of stacked stones believed to resemble ancient altars described in early traditions. Not far from it is the area sometimes called the Golden Calf site, where it is said that the Israelites may have gathered during the time of Moses. Whether one approaches these places historically, religiously, or simply with curiosity, standing in that quiet desert landscape gives a sense that the area carries stories far older than the modern world around it.
Split Rock of Horeb
Another remarkable stop was the famous Split Rock. This massive rock formation appears dramatically divided down the middle, as if it had been struck with force. Some visitors associate it with the biblical and Quranic story in which Prophet Musa struck a rock and water flowed from it to provide for his people.
Jethro Caves
We also visited the caves associated with Prophet Shuayb, known in the Bible as Jethro, who is believed to have been the father-in-law of Prophet Musa. These caves are located in the rugged desert terrain and are traditionally linked to the place where Jethro once lived.
Al-Suwaidni Well — The Well of Moses
Another stop tied to the story of Moses is the well known locally as Al-Suwaidni Well, sometimes referred to as the Well of Moses. According to local tradition, this well is connected to the story where Musa helped draw water for the daughters of Prophet Shuayb.
Ship Rock
One of the most striking rock formations I saw during the trip was Ship Rock, a massive sandstone formation that truly looks like a ship. This rock formation is located in the Hisma Desert, an area known for its towering sandstone formations, vast open landscapes, and dramatic desert scenery.
Mushroom Rock and Bajdah Welcome Rock
These formations are located in the Bajdah Desert, an area characterized by unique sandstone formations shaped by centuries of wind erosion.
Mushroom Rock lives up to its name. The rock appears to balance on a narrower base with a wider top, resembling a giant mushroom rising out of the desert floor. Nearby is the Bajdah Welcome Rock, a landmark that greets travelers entering the desert area.
NEOM — A Glimpse Into the Future
While much of the trip focused on history and ancient traditions on first day, another part of the journey offered a glimpse into the future. Driving through parts of the Tabuk region, we passed areas connected to the ambitious NEOM development.
Projects such as Trojena and THE LINE represent a vision of what Saudi Arabia aims to build in the coming decades. Seeing the landscapes where these projects are taking shape creates an interesting contrast: ancient history and futuristic ambition existing within the same region.
Sharma — The Red Sea and the Old Marina
Before ending the day, we stopped along the Red Sea coast near Sharma. The calm blue waters and quiet shoreline offered a peaceful contrast to the desert landscapes we had explored earlier.
We visited the old marina, a small coastal spot that reflects the maritime side of Tabuk’s history. For centuries, the Red Sea has connected this region to trade routes, fishing communities, and travelers moving between Arabia and Africa.
Al-Bad – Duba – Tayma
Prince Mohammed bin Salman Royal Reserve
One of the most remarkable areas I explored during this trip was the Prince Mohammed bin Salman Royal Reserve. This vast protected area stretches across parts of northwestern Saudi Arabia and includes mountains, valleys, volcanic fields, and pristine coastal zones along the Red Sea. The reserve was established to preserve the region’s unique ecosystems and wildlife while promoting sustainable tourism.
Driving through parts of the reserve, I could immediately understand why this landscape is so special. The scenery feels untouched and dramatic, with wide desert plains suddenly giving way to towering mountains and deep valleys. It is a place where nature still dominates the horizon, reminding visitors how vast and diverse the northern part of Saudi Arabia truly is.
The “Grand Canyon” of Tabuk
One of the places I specifically asked Abu Fares to take me to was what locals sometimes call the Grand Canyon of Tabuk. True to his word, Abu Fares made sure this stop was part of the journey. After a drive through desert landscapes, we reached a viewpoint overlooking a vast canyon carved into the mountains. Standing there and looking out across the deep valleys and layered rock formations was truly breathtaking. The scale of the landscape reminded me how dramatic northern Saudi Arabia can be.
Wadi Al Disah
Perhaps the place that surprised me the most during this trip was Wadi Al Disah. Before visiting, I had seen many photos of the valley, but nothing really prepares you for what it feels like to stand there in person.
What struck me immediately was the unexpected greenery. Tall palm trees and lush vegetation run through the valley floor, creating a striking contrast against the towering sandstone cliffs that rise dramatically on both sides. The rock formations themselves are incredible withmassive walls of stone shaped by time and erosion into smooth curves and towering pillars.
Walking through the valley felt almost surreal. In the middle of what many imagine to be a purely desert region, you suddenly find yourself surrounded by green landscapes and flowing water channels. It was easily one of the most beautiful natural places I experienced in Tabuk.
NEOM Wildlife Reserve
Another highlight of the journey was visiting the wildlife areas within NEOM Wildlife Reserve. I can honestly say it was the best wildlife reserve I have ever seen.
What made the experience so special was that it was my first time seeing several animals in person that I had only read about before. Among them were the Arabian oryx, Nubian ibex, Arabian gazelles, and mountain gazelles. Seeing these animals roaming freely in their natural habitat was an unforgettable moment. Another exciting sight was the red-necked ostriche. While ostriches are well known around the world, this was my first time seeing this particular species up close. Watching them move gracefully across the desert landscape added another layer of wonder to the experience.
The reserve itself reflects Saudi Arabia’s efforts to restore and protect wildlife populations that once thrived across the Arabian Peninsula. It was inspiring to see conservation happening on such a large scale.
City of Tabuk
Tabuk Castle
One of the most important landmarks in the city is Tabuk Castle. The fort dates back several centuries and historically served as an important stop for travelers and pilgrims moving along the ancient routes between the Arabian Peninsula and the Levant.
Tabuk Mosque / Al-Tawbah Mosque
Just a short walk from the castle is the Tabuk Mosque which is believed to be associated with the time of the Expedition of Tabuk, when Prophet Muhammad and his companions passed through this region.
Souq Twaheen
After visiting these historic sites, I wandered through some of the old souqs of Tabuk, where traditional shops continue to sell local products. Walking through Souq Twaheen today gives visitors a glimpse of what daily commercial life in Tabuk looked like decades ago, before the expansion of modern shopping centers.
Abu Hamza Honey
One of my favorite stops was a well-known honey shop called Abo Hamza, an award-winning honey store that has gained international recognition for the quality of its products. I ended up buying some local honey and dried raisins, both of which are specialties of the region.
The shop is known for selling premium Sidr honey (I took one and moringa) and other varieties sourced from Saudi Arabia and neighboring regions.
In northern Saudi Arabia, honey trading is a serious craft and business, and shops like Abu Hamza often build their reputation through honey competitions and international fairs where producers showcase purity, flavor, and origin.
A Taste of Bedouin Hospitality
Of course, the desert experience was not only about landscapes. Abu Fares also made sure I experienced a small but meaningful part of local Bedouin culture. During our journey, he introduced me to fresh camel milk and fresh camel yogurt. Drinking camel milk straight from the sheep skin bag which make it cold was something completely new to me. The taste was different from cow’s milk—lighter and slightly salty—but it felt like an authentic desert experience that connected me to the traditions of desert life.
Also, on my first day, I was invited to a dinner of Albalawi family.
The most memorable moments of hospitality happened during Saudi Founding Day.
That day, Abu Fares’ friend Abu Shamikh, a well-known blogger in Tabuk, kindly invited me to their traditional Saudi house. It was one of those experiences that you cannot plan as a traveler. It simply happens through the generosity of local people. We sat together, shared Saudi coffee, and talked about Tabuk, travel, and culture.
Later that evening, we all went together to the Saudi Founding Day celebration organized by Tabuk Municipality. The atmosphere was vibrant and full of pride. Twice during the program, I even joined the locals in performing traditional Saudi dances from Tabuk. It was one of those spontaneous moments that made me feel less like a visitor and more like someone temporarily part of the community.
Abu Shamikh also introduced me to several other bloggers from Tabuk and different parts of Saudi Arabia, which made the night even more special. It was inspiring to meet people who share the same passion for telling stories about their cities and culture.
The evening did not end there. My good friend Yazeed later invited me to experience a different side of Saudi—the young Saudi culture. Together with his friends Abdulmajid, Rayan, and Ibrahim, we spent the night roaming around the city, stopping for coffee and eventually sharing dinner together. It was a relaxed and genuine experience that showed me how the younger generation in Saudi Arabia connects, socializes, and enjoys their city.
During dinner, Abdulmajeed and his friend joined us as well. Before the night ended, Abdulmajeed warmly told me that whenever I return to Tabuk, their house would always be open for me to stay.
In Tabuk, hospitality is not just a tradition; it is a way of life.
Our Sweet Days (translated from Arabic, see below page for the location)
After the Saudi Founding Day celebration, Abu Shamikhbrought me to a place very close to his heart—his own tea truck called Our Sweet Days. The truck is located in Prince Fahd bin Sultan Park, one of the popular gathering places in Tabuk. The park becomes lively in the evenings, especially with rows of food trucks offering different snacks, drinks, and street food. Families, young people, and visitors gather there to relax, walk around, and enjoy the atmosphere.
What makes “Our Sweet Days” special is that it is truly a family-run business. Abu Shamikh runs it together with his children, and the story behind their signature drink is just as interesting as the tea itself. The famous hot fruit tea served there was actually the result of experiments by his wife and children, who tried different fruit combinations until they created a flavor that people loved.
Today, that hot fruit tea has become well known among locals in Tabuk, and many visitors specifically stop by the truck to try it.
Fraizlo Potatoes (translated from Arabic, see below page for the location)
Just a few steps away from the tea truck, another food spot immediately caught my attention. There was a long line of people waiting for fries at Frieslow Potatoes. The queue itself was a clear sign that something good was happening there. Aside from welcoming me warmly to his tea shop, Abu Shamikh also insisted on treating me to fries. Even better, he introduced me to the owner of the food truck, giving me the chance to meet another local entrepreneur behind one of Tabuk’s most popular street food spots.
Orda
The first place Yazeed and his friends took me when we started roaming around the city was Orda Coffee. It turned out to be a perfect introduction to the modern café culture of Tabuk. The café had a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere, filled with young locals enjoying their coffee and spending time with friends. What immediately stood out to me, however, was the kindness of the people running the place. The owner and the staff were incredibly hospitable and generous. When they learned I was visiting Tabuk, they warmly welcomed me and even offered some food from the café as a gift.
Diwan Al Hashi Restaurant
Later that evening, the experience of Tabuk’s hospitality continued when we went for dinner at Diwan Al Hashi Restaurant, one of the well-known traditional restaurants in Tabuk. One of Yazeed’s friends, Rayan, hosted us there. It turned out that the restaurant is owned by his father, which made the dinner feel even more special. Rayan personally welcomed us and made sure we tried some of the restaurant’s most famous dishes.
The restaurant is known for serving hashi, a traditional Saudi dish made from young camel meat, which is very popular in the northern regions of the Kingdom. The dishes were rich in flavor and beautifully prepared, reflecting the deep culinary traditions of the region.
When I first planned this trip, I expected Tabuk to impress me with its landscapes. And it certainly did. From the dramatic rock formations of the deserts to the green valley of Wadi Al Disah, and from the vast wilderness near NEOM to the peaceful shores of the Red Sea, the natural beauty of the region is truly remarkable. Northern Saudi Arabia offers landscapes that feel both ancient and untouched, reminding visitors how diverse the Kingdom’s geography really is.
But what made Tabuk unforgettable for me was not only the scenery, it was the people. Everywhere I went, I encountered warmth, generosity, and kindness. What began as a simple trip quickly turned into something much more meaningful because of the people who welcomed me as a friend rather than just a visitor.
A very special thanks goes to Abu Fares, who not only guided me through the incredible landscapes of Tabuk but also introduced me to the spirit of the region. Through him, I experienced Tabuk not just as a destination, but as a community. I am also deeply grateful to his friends who made my time in Tabuk even more memorable—Abu Shamikh, who welcomed me into his traditional home and shared stories over Saudi coffee; Yazeed, who showed me the vibrant side of the city and introduced me to his friends; and Abdulmajeed, whose generous invitation to return and stay with his family perfectly reflects the hospitality that defines this region.
Tabuk showed me something beautiful: a place where breathtaking landscapes meet genuine hospitality. A place where strangers can quickly become friends. I know one thing for certain—this will not be my last visit to Tabuk. I look forward to returning to the Tender North, where warm hearts and wild beauty come together.
Want me to try new places or adventures in Saudi Arabia? Drop me a message and I will try to visit them. If you have questions about this trip or my other trips within the Kingdom, feel free to reach out to. I would be more than happy to share tips and recommendations.
My Saudi Arabia does not stop here. Look for more adventures in the Kingdom by visiting my Saudi Arabia Travel Guide.
Saudi Arabia Travel Guide
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Asir Region
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Connect
TOURISM AND TRANSPORTATION
VisitSaudi.com
Website | Facebook | Instagram | X | YouTube
Shaher Albalawi
Website | Message me for his contact details
flynas
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Flyadeal
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ACCOMMODATION
Holiday Inn Tabuk
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FOOD AND BEVERAGE
أيامنآ الحلوة (Our Sweet Days)
Location | Abu Shamikh on Tiktok | Abu Shamikh on Snapchat
Diwan Al Hashi
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Orda
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بطاطس فرايزلو (Fraizlo Potatoes)
Location
أطايب الديوان (Abu Hamza Honey)
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About the Author
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PJ is a Certified Public Accountant, writer, storyteller, and an advocate for youth empowerment and environmental protection. His passion for storytelling and social impact has taken many forms—from writing thought-provoking articles on national development, featured in a Spanish newspaper and Rappler, to producing documentaries on mining and environmental issues that aired on ABS-CBN News and GMA News.
A proud Ilocano and graduate of Northwestern University, PJ earned his degree in Accountancy then passed the CPA licensure exam in 2015. That same year, he began his professional career at KPMG in the Philippines. As an external auditor, he handled a diverse portfolio of clients, including a global workspace provider (the largest audit engagement of KPMG Philippines), a global bank, a major FMCG player, and several shared service centers.
His commitment to innovation was evident early in his career. PJ and his team won the KPMG Asia-Pacific Data & Analytics Challenge and later coached the Philippine team to a top-three finish at the KPMG GlobalRunner Cup. He went on to lead KPMG Philippines' Network of Audit Innovators and Data & Analytics Champions, as well as its academic arm. He was an active contributor to the Asia-Pacific Audit Digital Transformation Workstream and a member of both the Audit Methodology Group and the Root Cause Analysis Team. Beyond technical excellence, PJ is deeply committed to learning and leadership. He was a regular training facilitator on audit methodology, professional standards, and emerging tools in data and analytics. He also served as the Firm’s System of Quality Management (SoQM) Implementation Manager and one of its Workforce of the Future Champions.
In 2019, he contributed to the Philippine Institute of Certified Public Accountants (PICPA) as a member of its Technical Working Group on Audit Methodology. His role in shaping audit quality and innovation has left a meaningful imprint on the profession.
PJ defines success by the people he uplifts. As a mentor and coach, he invests in the growth of emerging professionals and previously served as a member of the KPMG Philippines People Committee.
He leads various community-centered advocacy projects and shares inspiring stories through his vlog, PJspirations, a platform that celebrates individuals and their journeys. As a volunteer, he serves as Academic Master and Head Coach of PREMIER International Learning and Development Center, an organization devoted to providing coaching, mentoring, and training programs that help people grow personally and professionally.
Today, PJ brings his passion and expertise to the Middle East, South Asia, and Caspian regions as part of KPMG’s Professional Practice and Audit Learning & Development team. In this role, he contributes to audit methodology advancement and learning strategy across the Middle East Cluster.
He is also a certified #IAmRemarkable facilitator, leading sessions of the global Google initiative that empowers women and underrepresented groups to celebrate their achievements.
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Personal Website: http://lnk.bio/pjspirations
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