THE SOLO DRIFTER: Najran | Noble Land of Saudi Arabia

I wasn’t planning Najran to be my next stop until a simple lunch changed everything. Sitting with colleagues, Mohammed casually said, “You should come to Najran.” It was already on my bucket list, but I had always hesitated. It’s one of those places you don’t just visit, you experience it better with a local. So after my trip outside Saudi during the Eid’l Fitr break, I took that invitation and finally made my way there. I have already visited the south of Saudi Arabia before with Al Bahah, Asir and Jazan.

Saudi Arabia Travel Guide
Riyadh
Al Bahah
Tabuk
Asir Region
Jazan
Hejaz, including Jeddah
Sharqiah (Eastern Region)
Najran

What I found there was more than just a destination. Through Mohammed and the people I met, I began to understand more deeply the concept of tribes in Saudi and the role of a “sheikh”. Najran surprised me in ways I didn’t expect. The warmth of its people, the sincerity of their welcome, and the quiet generosity in every interaction made the experience feel personal. And above all, there’s a certain stillness in Najran. A calm, peaceful rhythm that slows you down and invites you to simply be.

Table of Contents

What you need to know about Najran

Located in the south of Saudi Arabia, bordering Yemen, giving it a distinct cultural and historical identity compared to central regions like Riyadh.
There are various stories about the origins of the name Najran. Some of these stories attribute it to its first settler, Najran bin Zaidan bin Saba’a bin Ya’rub bin Qahtan.
Comprises six governorates, with Najran serving as the seat of the province. Other governorates are Sharurah, Habona, Thar, Yadamah, Badr Al-Janub and Khubash.
Contains three geographical areas. The flat area which lies in the middle of Najran. It has several valleys, the most famous of them being Najran’s valley. The mountainous area which is in the west and the north. There the weather is moderate in summer. Many of the mountains are distinguished by granite rocks, where marble and granite are quarried,. Third, the sandy area which lies in the east and is a part of the Empty Quarter.
One of the oldest inhabited regions in the Arabian Peninsula, with roots tracing back thousands of years.
Historically part of major ancient trade routes, especially the incense route connecting South Arabia to the north.
The town of Najrān was already an important centre of arms manufacture during the lifetime of Prophet Muhammad.
Known for its strong tribal structure, where tribes still play an important role in social and cultural life The presence of a “sheikh” (tribal leader) remains significant in community leadership and decision-making.
Rich in archaeological sites and mud-brick architecture, reflecting pre-Islamic and early Islamic history.
According to the Arab Muslim historian Ibn Isḥāq, Najrān was the first place where Christianity took root in South Arabia.
In the early 6th century, a Jewish king named Dhū Nuwās attacked Christian communities in the region, including Najran. After the city surrendered, many Christians who refused to change their faith were killed, an event often linked to the story of the People of the Ditch. Later, during the time of the Prophet Muhammad, the Christians of Najran made an agreement to pay an annual tribute in exchange for protection and the freedom to practice their religion. This continued under the early caliphs. However, during the rule of Caliph Umar, the Christian community was eventually asked to leave Najran when they were accused of usury and later relocated to Iraq, where they settled and continued their lives there.
Najran also had a Jewish community since pre-Islamic times, linked to the Banu al-Harith tribe. They lived in the region for centuries, even before the arrival of Christianity. After Najran became part of Saudi Arabia in 1934, many Jews left the region. Around 1949, about 200 of them moved to Aden in Yemen.

What you need to know about Najran City

Famous for Al-Ukhdood Archaeological Site, an ancient site linked to early civilizations and historical events mentioned in Islamic history.
Home to the iconic Najran Fort, showcasing traditional mud-brick architecture.
Najran has a hot desert climate, like most places in the Arabian Peninsula. Rain is very rare and usually comes in small amounts. Najran is slightly 3.3 °C or 5.9 °F (on an average) cooler than Riyadh. This is because the city is located at a higher elevation, about 700 meters above sea level.

History

The integration of Najran into modern Saudi Arabia is tied to the period of unification under King Abdulaziz Ibn Saud in the early 20th century. In the 1930s, the region of Najran became part of Saudi Arabia following conflicts between Saudi forces and the Mutawakkilite Kingdom of Yemen. This period included the Saudi–Yemeni War (1934), which resulted in the Treaty of Taif, which helped define borders and formalize Najran’s inclusion within Saudi territory. While these events are often summarized in a few lines in history books, they were shaped not only by national leadership but also by local tribes and leaders in Najran, whose alliances and positions played a role in how the region evolved.

In more recent times, Najran has also been indirectly affected by the ongoing conflict in Yemen. Due to its geographic proximity, the region has experienced periods of heightened security awareness. There have been times when infrastructure, including transport operations, was affected or adjusted as a precaution.

Now, what I feel is peace and calmness.

Understanding the tribe concept in Saudi Arabia

One of the most meaningful parts of my trip to Najran was learning about the concept of tribes. Something that is still very much alive in Saudi Arabia today. A tribe (قبيلة) a system of identity, responsibility, and belonging that connects families across generations. Within each tribe, there are smaller branches and families, each carrying its own name, but all linked to a larger lineage. Even in a modern and rapidly developing country like Saudi Arabia, tribes continue to play an important role, not politically but socially and culturally.

The Sheikh

At the center of tribal life is the sheikh, the recognized leader of the tribe. He is expected to:

Represent the tribe in important matters
Resolve disputes fairly and maintain harmony
Uphold traditions and guide the community
Host gatherings and strengthen relationships
Lead with wisdom, generosity, and integrity

A sheikh is usually chosen based on:

Lineage (often from a respected family within the tribe)
Wisdom and character
Ability to lead and unite people
Acceptance by the tribe members

It is less about formal selection and more about collective recognition.

Tribes in Najran

The most prominent tribes in Najran are Al Yami and Al Makrami.

Getting to and around Najran

By Air

The easiest and fastest way to reach Najran is by flying into Najran Domestic Airport.

Direct domestic flights are available from major cities
Flight time from Riyadh is around 1 hour 45 minutes to 2 hours
The airport is small and efficient, making arrival and exit very smooth

For most travelers, especially those visiting for the first time, flying is the most convenient option. I took Saudia for my flights.

What genuinely surprised me was the airport itself. I didn’t expect it to feel modern and well-designed with clean lines, organized spaces, and a structure that feels relatively new compared to what you might imagine for a southern, less touristy region. They have spaces for children and even a book club.

There are mentions that the airport experienced periods of limited operations in the past due to regional security situations, which may explain why parts of it feel well-maintained and less worn than expected. There were times during that period that travellers had to go to Abha airport to take flights around or outside Saudi Arabia. Regardless of the reason, the overall experience was pleasant and seamless, and definitely not what I initially had in mind.

By Land

Najran is reachable by road.

From Riyadh to Najran

Distance: approximately 950–1,000 km
Travel time: around 10 hours by car
Route: well-paved highways with long desert stretches

This is a long drive, but it’s direct, safe, and straightforward, especially for those who enjoy road trips.

From Abha to Najran

Distance: approximately 280–300 km
Travel time: around 3 hours
Route: scenic roads passing through mountains and valleys

Compared to Riyadh, this route is more visually rewarding. If you’re already in Abha, Najran becomes a very easy addition to your itinerary.

Road Infrastructure

Saudi Arabia has invested heavily in modern road infrastructure, connecting cities across vast desert and mountainous landscapes.

Roads are fully asphalted and regularly maintained. In mountainous regions (like the Abha–Najran route), roads are engineered with cut-through mountain paths, gradual elevation changes and protective barriers and safety systems. Clear signage, rest stops, and fuel stations are placed along major routes.

Getting around Najran

Once you arrive, getting around Najran is quite straightforward but it does require a bit of planning.

The city is spread out, so walking is not practical for most places
The best option is to rent a car or be with a local who can drive you around
Ride-hailing apps like Uber and Careem are available, but may be less frequent compared to bigger cities
Roads within the city are wide, organized, and easy to navigate
There is less traffic in Najran

What I realized is that Najran is not a place you rush through. Moving around is part of the experience.

Where to stay

During my stay in Najran, I stayed at Park Inn by Radisson Najran, and it honestly exceeded my expectations. Located in the Al Fahad District, the hotel is very accessible, close to the city center, main roads, and key areas around Najran. What I appreciated most is how the hotel fits perfectly with Najran itself. It’s modern but not overwhelming, comfortable but not excessive, and quiet just like the city around it.

Places to visit

Al-Ukhdood Archaeological Site

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One of the most important historical sites in Najran is Al-Ukhdood Archaeological Site. This place is believed to be linked to the story of the “People of the Ditch”, mentioned in the Qur’an. This event is believed to have taken place in the early 6th century, during the rule of Dhū Nuwās, a king of the Himyarite Kingdom in Yemen. At that time, Najran was an important center of Christianity in the Arabian Peninsula, with a strong and established community. Dhū Nuwās opposed this and wanted the people to abandon their faith and convert to Judaism.

When the people of Najran refused, he ordered punishment. Large trenches (ditches) were dug into the ground and filled with fire. The Christians were then given a choice: renounce their faith, or be thrown into the burning ditches. Many chose to remain firm in their belief and were killed. This tragic event is what became known as the story of the People of the Ditch. Syriac sources refer to it as the “Massacre of Najran Martyrs.” It is also mentioned in Greek sources as “the Story of the Martyrdom of Al-Harith and His Companions in the City of Najran.”

Najran Regional Museum

To better understand Najran’s history, a visit to the Najran Regional Museum is highly recommended. It displays include tools, inscriptions, manuscripts, and traditional items. The building itself reflects traditional Najrani architecture. Currently, Saudi government is building a bigger architecture to house the artifacts from the archaeological site.

Al Balad

The heart of Najran’s culture can be found in Al Balad, the old town.

Traditional Souqs

Here, you’ll find traditional souqs that feel authentic and untouched by modern commercialization. It’s simple, local, and very real. You’ll notice: traditional goods and clothing and handcrafted items.

Janbiyah (Traditional Dagger)

One of the most distinctive items you’ll find in the souqs is the janbiyah, a traditional curved dagger. It is a symbol of identity, honor, and heritage. It is common in southern Saudi and Yemeni culture

Price range:

Basic: 200–500 riyals
Mid-range: 500–1,500 riyals
Premium/antique: 2,000+ and can even reach 2 million riyals

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Prices vary depending on materials (horn, wood, silver), craftsmanship, and historical significance.

The Emir’s Palace

Within Al Balad, you’ll also come across the old Emir’s Palace, a historical structure that once served as the seat of local governance. It was built in traditional Najrani mud-brick architecture.

Najran Valley

Beyond the city, Najran opens into wide valley landscapes, where farms, open land, and desert meet. This is where you’ll often find Arabian horse riding.

Arabian horse riding

The Arabian horse is one of the oldest and most valued breeds in the world. It is historically used for travel, trade, and warfare; and known for endurance, intelligence, and elegance.

Al Aan Palace

One of the most iconic landmarks is Al Aan Palace which was built using traditional mud-brick techniques. It features multiple levels and watchtowers and designed for both residence and protection. It reflects how architecture in Najran was shaped by environment and necessity.

Sheikh Ali Bin Hussein Al Makrami Palace

This palace is associated with Ali bin Hussein Al-Makrami, a prominent leader from the Al-Makrami tribe which historically held religious and social leadership in Najran. The palace reflects the status and influence of tribal leadership, showing how authority in Najran has long been tied to both heritage and community trust.

Castle of Rome

Located an altitude of around 1,000 meters, the Castle of Rome was built by the Yemeni army during their control of Najran in 1929. Its elevated position once gave it strategic importance, overlooking the surrounding landscape. Reaching the castle is part of the experience, you’ll need to hike for about 30 minutes, with a fairly steep and challenging path.

Parks in Najran

Najran’s calm atmosphere extends into its public spaces. Its parks are simple, but full of life.

Notable Parks

King Fahad Park
- Spacious and popular for families
Najran Park
- Central and easy to access
Prince Jalawi Park Waterfall
- Features a man-made waterfall
- Named after Prince Jalawi bin Abdulaziz bin Musaed, a Saudi royal who served as governor

Bir Askar

Is a well-known area and park in Najran. So historically, the name likely means “Well of the Soldiers”, referring to an old water source used by people or troops in the past.

Today, people flock here for its cooler atmosphere compared to the city. Often busy at night, especially during weekends. Most of the people from Najran have their esteraha (gathering place).

Najran Valley Dam

Najran Valley Dam is one of the largest dams in Saudi Arabia. It’s a place where you can truly slow down, surrounded by calm waters, quiet landscapes, and a sense of stillness that’s hard to find elsewhere.

Hima Cultural Area and Hima Wells

The Hima Cultural Area is one of the most remarkable heritage sites in the region and even recognized by UNESCO. It contains thousands of ancient rock carvings and inscriptions some date back thousands of years. This area was once a major stop along ancient trade routes, where travelers would pass, rest, and leave markings behind.

Near the Hima Cultural Area are the Hima Wells, which played a crucial role in the past. There, you may see ancient wells that provided water for caravans and travelers, essential for survival along long desert trade routes. It helped make Hima a key stopover point for trade and movement.

Where to eat

What I noticed in Najran compared to other cities is how people here take their time. There’s no rush, no pressure. They start their life early here. You would see people going to breakfast places as early as 6:00am or even people going to restaurants and coffee shops at 10:00am until 11:00am then they go back to work. Shops though open later in the evening, mostly 4:00pm. Compared to bigger cities where everything feels fast, here you see people fully embracing slow mornings. Then you would see people in parks around 5:00pm.

Tamees & Taghmees (تميس وتغميس)

Tamees & Taghmees is where you really observe the daily rhythm of Najran. People gather here early in the morning for breakfast and coffee. It gets lively but never chaotic. Had shakshoka and mogalgal camel meat and foul for breakfast here.

Al Istikana Café – Al Balad Branch (مقهى الإستكانة فرع/البلد)

Located in Al Balad, Al Istikana Cafe Al Balad Branch is one of the most unique cafés I visited. The place is filled with old and traditional items.

Mashwi Baladi

Mashwi Baladi is one of those places that immediately feels comfortable and familiar. The space is simple but very cozy and welcoming. Known for its grilled dishes, served in an elegant manner.

Namq Café

Namq Cafe is a known name across Saudi Arabia and Najran has its own branch. Modern, clean, and very cozy atmosphere and ideal for quiet time, work, or casual meetups.

PRIDE Café

PRIDE Cafe feels like one of the newer additions to Najran’s café scene. Modern and slightly more trendy in design and a place that blends contemporary café culture with Najran’s calm vibe. Good for coffee, desserts, and casual hangouts.

Shifa Najran Catering Restaurant (مطاعم ومطابخ شفاء نجران)

It is a more local, straightforward dining spot. No-frills, simple setting. Focused on traditional dishes. Here, had kebda (liver) and makhloot (eggs with foul).

The Welcoming Vibe of Najran

If there’s one thing that truly defines Najran, it’s not just its history or landscapes—it’s its people. It felt intentional, genuine, and deeply rooted in tradition.

One of the most memorable moments of my trip was being welcomed by members of the Al Makrami family. They prepared Mogalgal lamb, a traditional dish cooked simply yet rich in flavor, alongside lamb Kabsa. What made it even more special was that I was able to see how the Kabsa was prepared from the spices to the slow cooking process. Thanks to my friend Mohammed for inviting me.

Another unforgettable experience was with Haider, his son Hassan and his cousin Fahad. Through them, I experienced Arabian horse riding in its most authentic form, while I am wearing thobe and janbiyah.

Perhaps the most meaningful part of my trip was being invited into the home of my friend Mohammed. His father welcomed me for lunch. We had rogsh, a dish made of brown bread and meat, cooked using a traditional black stone called a medhen; kabab, served in a simple but flavorful way; and a home-made Ma’amoul Tamer. All prepared by Mohammed’s mom and his wife. Mohammed’s father took me around the city after our lunch and he gave me a tour to his company’s office. He built his own business Ruaad Alebdaa (which designs, builds and installs doors and kitchens for homes and businesses) when he was working in a government office in his earlier years.

Najran was never just about ticking off another place on my list. It turned out to be one of those trips that stays with you.

My deepest thanks to Mohammed for making this trip possible and for arranging everything so thoughtfully. To his father for welcoming me into their home, to Haider and his family for sharing such a genuine experience, and to the Al Makrami family for their warmth and generosity—thank you for allowing me to experience Najran not as a visitor, but as a guest. And to the people of Najran, in general—your kindness was something I truly didn’t expect, but will never forget.

What makes Najran special is its calmness. It’s a city that doesn’t rush, doesn’t try to impress, and doesn’t need to. Everything feels grounded, peaceful, and real. And because of that, I know this won’t be my last visit. I will definitely come back—not just for the place, but for the unique Saudi traditional experience that Najran quietly offers.

My Saudi Arabia does not stop here. Look for more adventures in the Kingdom by visiting my Saudi Arabia Travel Guide.

Saudi Arabia Travel Guide
Riyadh
Al Bahah
Tabuk
Asir Region
Jazan
Hejaz, including Jeddah
Sharqiah (Eastern Region)
Najran

Connect

TOURISM AND TRANSPORTATION

VisitSaudi.com
Website | Facebook | Instagram | X | YouTube

ACCOMMODATION

Park Inn by Radisson Najran
Website | Instagram | Tiktok

FOOD AND BEVERAGE

Mashwi Baladi
Instagram | Tiktok | Snapchat | Facebook

Tamees & Taghmees (تميس وتغميس)
Tiktok | Location

Namq Cafe
Instagram | Snapchat | X | Tiktok

Al Istikana Café – Al Balad Branch (مقهى الإستكانة فرع/البلد)
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About the Author

Paul Michael JaramilloChief Executive Editor

PJ is a Certified Public Accountant, writer, storyteller, and an advocate for youth empowerment and environmental protection. His passion for storytelling and social impact has taken many forms—from writing thought-provoking articles on national development, featured in a Spanish newspaper and Rappler, to producing documentaries on mining and environmental issues that aired on ABS-CBN News and GMA News.

A proud Ilocano and graduate of Northwestern University, PJ earned his degree in Accountancy then passed the CPA licensure exam in 2015. That same year, he began his professional career at KPMG in the Philippines. As an external auditor, he handled a diverse portfolio of clients, including a global workspace provider (the largest audit engagement of KPMG Philippines), a global bank, a major FMCG player, and several shared service centers.

His commitment to innovation was evident early in his career. PJ and his team won the KPMG Asia-Pacific Data & Analytics Challenge and later coached the Philippine team to a top-three finish at the KPMG GlobalRunner Cup. He went on to lead KPMG Philippines' Network of Audit Innovators and Data & Analytics Champions, as well as its academic arm. He was an active contributor to the Asia-Pacific Audit Digital Transformation Workstream and a member of both the Audit Methodology Group and the Root Cause Analysis Team. Beyond technical excellence, PJ is deeply committed to learning and leadership. He was a regular training facilitator on audit methodology, professional standards, and emerging tools in data and analytics. He also served as the Firm’s System of Quality Management (SoQM) Implementation Manager and one of its Workforce of the Future Champions.

In 2019, he contributed to the Philippine Institute of Certified Public Accountants (PICPA) as a member of its Technical Working Group on Audit Methodology. His role in shaping audit quality and innovation has left a meaningful imprint on the profession.

PJ defines success by the people he uplifts. As a mentor and coach, he invests in the growth of emerging professionals and previously served as a member of the KPMG Philippines People Committee.

He leads various community-centered advocacy projects and shares inspiring stories through his vlog, PJspirations, a platform that celebrates individuals and their journeys. As a volunteer, he serves as Academic Master and Head Coach of PREMIER International Learning and Development Center, an organization devoted to providing coaching, mentoring, and training programs that help people grow personally and professionally.

Today, PJ brings his passion and expertise to the Middle East, South Asia, and Caspian regions as part of KPMG’s Professional Practice and Audit Learning & Development team. In this role, he contributes to audit methodology advancement and learning strategy across the Middle East Cluster.

He is also a certified #IAmRemarkable facilitator, leading sessions of the global Google initiative that empowers women and underrepresented groups to celebrate their achievements.

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